Define ‘simple cooking’. Easy? Quick? Cheap? It’s all of those, certainly. What it is unlikely to conjure up are visions of growing your own seasonal vegetables, planning and nurturing your various roots and shoots for months on end before finally picking a few of them to form the basis of a stew. There’s something terribly flawed in the concept of the series Nigel Slater’s Simple Suppers (BBC One) and, more generally – let’s not blame Nigel here – with TV’s incessant blending of cookery and ‘grow your own’ as though the two activities are one and the same thing.